After last night's post, my mind wandered back to the way I built models in the 1980's. I had, by then, developed my skills to the point where I was getting pretty consistent results regardless of the kit I built. Of course, back then I didn't worry too much about the one thing that seems to be the #1, most important thing to a modeler these days:
Is it accurate?
Mr. Webster, a little help?
accurate (adj \ˈa-kyə-rət, ˈa-k(ə-)rət\): 1: free from error especially as the result of care <an accurate diagnosis>; 2: conforming exactly to truth or to a standard : exact <providing accurate color>; 3: able to give an accurate result <an accurate gauge>
I also find it interesting that the online version of Websters gives this example: "The model is accurate down to the tiniest details."
We'll take the second definition, since it seems to be closest to what we think about when we think accurate. Are there any 100%, "conforming exactly to truth [or a 1:1 scale protoype?–me] or to a standard" model kits out there? Yes? No? And remember, I'm talking kits here, not models. Models are what happens when you build a kit…
I'd wager no. Sure, there are some kits that are pretty darn close. But 100%? In order to be 100% accurate, a kit would have to be derived from a 1:1 article that was put into Rick Moranis' "Honey, I Shrunk the Kids" machine. A truly accurate kit would be extremely fragile, and would probably not compare well when viewed alongside the prototype. Subtle shape changes would be lost in the reduced version. For the sake of discussion, let's say that the shrunken version may be an exact reduced size reproduction of the original, but in the process a lot gets lost in translation.
So, let's put that item into the Re-Big-U-Lator and move on.
Unless a model manufacturer making a 1/32 scale kit, for example, decides that he wants to make each part exactly 1/32 the size of the original in length, width, thickness, gauge, etc., there can be no 100% accurate kits–the kits would be so fragile you'd never get them built. Unless the manufacturer wants to go to the point of including all of the internal doo-dads of the prototype, there can be no 100% accurate kits. The parts need to have a draft angle incorporated so they'll pop out of the molds–making the kit not quite 100% faithful to the original. Again, kits, not models.
So, what are we debating here? Simply this–there are many kits that are faithful in shape to the originals. There are many kits that are close, and there are many kits where you want to find the guy who did the master and ask him just what brand of crack was he smoking when he came up with a master that makes a mold that translates into a waste of innocent styrene. It is what we, the modelers, do with those kits that determines how accurate the model will be.
I'm no superdetailer. Sure, I can add details to a kit–scratchbuilt cockpits, rescribed panel lines, new landing gear–but I don't go bolt for bolt, rivet for rivet when I do so. I admire those modelers who do want to replicate every nut, bolt, rivet, wire harness, oil line, and the like. But to me, I look at a kit and assess it on the following criteria: Does it look like what it is supposed to be? Is the basic shape correct? Are the relationships between the constituent parts correct, i.e., is the wing where it should be? Are the proportions in harmony? I'll study photos, and I'll consult references. But in the end, the aesthetics of the kit is most important to me. I can take a basic shape and add the details until the moo-cows come home…
A lot of people will drag out their "scale drawings" when a new kit comes out, compare the model to the drawings, and make a proclamation. Problem is, the scale drawings aren't always accurate, either. "But the drawings I have a are official blueprints of the actual airplane", you say. I ask what you paid for them, and then tell you that someone ripped you off. Airplanes, for instance, usually don't have a "blueprint", the closest thing you're likely to get is what they call a "General Arrangement" diagram. If you dig through the maintenance manual, you might find some things that will get you close–Station, Waterline, and Buttock Line diagrams, for starters–but even they are an approximation. The only drawing that reflects the actual shape of any partof the airplane are the engineering drawings for that particular part. So, in order to have a set of "factory blueprints" you're going to need a bigger house. There are thousands of parts on an airplane, each one with an official engineering document that tells you not only the shape of the part, but which materials and processes are used to make it. You'd have to take those drawings and derive your own set of "accurate drawings".
Another way to get "accurate drawings" would be to extensively measure the original. Easier said than done, but it can (and has) been done–Charles Neely's P-51 drawings, for example, have been heralded as the best drawings of the mustang in existence. You'll need all sorts of measuring equipment, but it can be done. In truth, a good many models were done exactly in this manner, and the care taken while measuring is reflected in the final kit. Those subjects that were measured carefully yield great kits. Those subjects that were measured with a length of rope and a yardstick don't. Simple, yes?
Me? I'll take a couple of decent photos and do a visual comparison. If I can't see a huge discrepancy between the photos of the prototype and the kit, I don't squawk. If details are missing, so what? I can add them easily enough. What I don't want to have to do it recontour a fuselage or scratchbuild a wing to make the model approximate the shapes I see in the photos. To me, that's too much risk for too little reward. And I'll still admire the modelers who can take a good, basic kit and make it into a model that comes close to being a 100% accurate model.
Well, I finally was able to eke out a few minutes–let's see if I can put something coherent together…
I was reading one of the online modeling forums today, and after reading and responding to some questions of a "How do I…" nature, I was reminded yet again that this generation of modelers doesn't remember when you didn't have answers to your questions immediately. Now, don't get me wrong, the Internet is a wonderful thing, and I only wish that I had something like this when I was coming up. But the flip side of that coin is that today's modelers can't know how it feels to try something that works after several tries.
When I first started modeling, I had nothing to guide me except what my father told me and what I as able to figure out on my own or with the help of the other neighborhood kids. I managed to do a creditable job in spite of myself. Then, we were enrolled in the Young Model Builder's club, where I learned a bit more. When I finally discovered Challenge Publications Scale Modeler magazine in 1978, I realized I didn't know what I didn't know. Through reading that magazine, I started to develop better skills and build better models. Granted, there was still a lot of trial and error going on…
In 1980 or thereabouts, Kalmbach Publications did two things–publish Sheperd Paine's first book, "How to Build Dioramas" (I had already collected all of the aircraft diorama brochures he did for Monogram Models) and began quarterly publication of FineScale Modeler magazine, which stood head and shoulders above the other magazines available in the States. There was still a lot of cut-and-try going on, but here were two guides telling me how to best do something.
Then, came my association with IPMS/USA and their Flight 19 Chapter in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. Some of my fondest modeling moments came while I was associated with that club, and I met some of my best friends while a member. Believe me, friends, if you think modeling is a lone-wolf type of activity, get out to the local club meeting. I speak from experience, as there was a ten year gap from the time I left Florida (and the club) until I started attending the IPMS/Mid-Carolina Swamp Fox club meetings up here–I forgot just how much I missed the monthly gatherings to talk plastic. If you think you're a good modeler now, the club will help you become a better modeler, and that goes for everyone from the babe-in-the-woods noob to the guy who has a display case full of beautiful models and trophies to his credit. And don't limit yourself to IPMS clubs, either–there are car clubs, ship clubs, and armor clubs (AMPS, and in my case the Central South Carolina Wildcats Chapter) that are every bit as good as IPMS. Think of IPMS as an MD who is the local family doctor, and the others as the specialists.
I guess the Internet has become to this generation what Paine and FineScale Modeler was to me–a guide through the darkness. What today's modelers might not understand is that while you can now ask a question and get a dozen equally correct answers within minutes rather than months, weeks, or hours, the results still come through experimentation. That takes time. And who says you have to rush a model?
Thanks for reading. Be good to one another, and I bid you Peace.
In Part 1, I told you how I discovered the hobby shop and all of the riches contained within. By the time I graduated from college, I had been roped in to the hobby, lock, stock, and #11 blade (Who am I kidding–I was deeply hooked long before then). Between the hobby shops in Daytona Beach and Ft. Lauderdale as well as some mail order places, I was able to feed my habit. By the way, do you remember mail order? Quaint notion–you filled out a form, wrote a check, put it all in an envelope, stuck a stamp on it (Remember those? The stamps you had to lick, not those self adhesive ones we have now) and put it in the mail. In about two weeks, a friendly employee of the USPS had a package for you. The aftermarket was just starting to get a good foothold back in the '80's, and the only way to get it was to either have a well-stocked local shop or through the mail. Newer kits from Japan were also making their debut–I recall when a new Japanese upstart company called TriMaster first released their 1/48 scale FW-190D-9 kit–it sold for a whopping $42. Compare that to the $10-$15 that the Hasegawa, Fujimi, and Tamiya kits were going for, and that's a fair chunk of change. I finally bought it, using up two or three weeks' worth of disposable income…
Anyhow, I was hooked, bad. Every week I'd make the trip to the hobby shop to get the plastic fix. New kits were hitting the shelves fast and furious–and of course, they were subjects I had longed for and in my preferred scale. That all adds up to the fact that I "needed" them. Lest you think I'm jesting, it was (and still is, to an extent) an addiction. Substitute plastic models for dope and hobby shop for dealer, and you're close to the mark. Well, I would hang out at the hobby shop for hours on end and shoot the bull with the local club guys every Sunday. We'd all usually arrive at 11:00 or Noon, and hang around for the afternoon. This went on for quite a while…
Warrick Hobbies had by this time moved from their store in the Twin Oaks Center on Davie Blvd. (I still miss the train layout in the enclosure in front of the store) to a similarly sized store at the corner of Griffin Road and University Drive. By the time I became a regular, talk was that the owner was looking to move again, this time to a store in the old Best Plaza at University Drive and Peters Road. Talk became reality, and the store moved sometime in 1991. Well, moving the store closer to home didn't help matters much. I would spend Sundays at the store, talking shop and seeing all the new stuff available, as well as seeing what everyone was building when they brought their models in to show.
I guess it was around 1992 or 1993 when the then-manager was going to get married and take some time off. He asked me if I thought I could fill in for him for the weekend. It didn't take me long to answer, and that started what was to become a working relationship that would last until 2001, when I moved to South Carolina. From my first visit to the store out on Davie Blvd., I remembered that the stock was a good, solid foundation of kits with some good aftermarket products beginning to appear. As the years passed, we would add product lines as the customers would want the new stuff, both kits and aftermarket. New companies would come along with newer products–decals, once the territory of Microscale, were being produced by a half-dozen firms now. The new decals were sharper, better researched, and included basic histories and color instructions. New lines of brass were available–a little Czech company called Eduard were popping out new sets weekly, it seemed, and they were giving Airwaves a run for their money.
As we would add lines, we would gain customers. Actually, we didn't see them as customers–we had friends that we sold hobby stuff to. The local club would hold their unofficial meeting-away-from-the-meeting at the store, on Sundays (I guess the few of us that started hanging out on Sundays started a trend). We'd go have dinner together at the local pizza joint (3 Guys from Italy, University Drive and I-595 next to the IHOP–don't bother, it closed and became a taco bar) or the then-new Applebee's that opened across the parking lot from the store. As an aside, if you work in the food service industry, here's a tip–if you take care of your customers (as the staff at the Applebee's did throughout the years), the customers will take care of you. I think we collectively put a few of the wait staff AND their kids through college….
By about 1996, things were really humming like a well-oiled machine. Sure, one or two of the guys would move away–one moved away, then came back, then moved away again right about the time we moved to SC. Then, the manager moved. A few years later, the Third Musketeer in the department also moved. A few of our good, core customers also moved about a year after that. There was a great disturbance in the Force, but the shop didn't seem to notice–business was still good. The period from around 1985 until maybe 2002 was a Golden Age in Plastic modeling–a subject that I'll cover that sometime later–as the product was selling itself. In 1999, I met the woman who I was destined to marry, and by 2001 I had decided to move away. Consider that some of the folks who were instrumental in the shop were also wheels with the local club, and both institutions were feeling the loss…
In the meantime, down the road in Miami, Orange Blossom Hobbies had enjoyed the same period of success that we had at Warrick. They would be packed on the Saturdays that I decided to ride down and check things out. It seems that the guys who stopped in at Warrick on Sundays also congregated at OB on Saturdays, too…
To me, it all seemed to fall apart after the September 11th attacks–now, I'm not trying to say that the attacks affected the hobby industry that profoundly, but things took on a new focus in the country. Consider this–I resigned my position at Warrick in late 2000 and moved away in September 2001. By the end of the year, Orange Blossom was closed, bankrupt. They liquidated their merchandise–some of it wound up at the Pearl Art and Craft on Oakland Park Blvd., as my wife and I found out while on a visit that December. Warrick had moved again, and while things seemed to be doing well with the new staff in "my" department, it never seemed to be the same. By 2005, the department was being "downsized". The last time I was there in December 2007, the plastics "department" consisted of a few kits. All of the aftermarket, all of those interesting decals sheets, all of the books, gone, blown out.
To this day, it still makes me shudder to think of what became of the vast stocks of decals–some long out of print–that both Orange Blossom and Warrick used to have tucked in their file cabinets. I also am saddened to think of all those aftermarket sets we bought for the benefit of the locals that got sold off for pennies on the dollar. I guess the lesson is this, kids–Support your local hobby shop if you are lucky enough to have one. If you don't, you'll find yourself in the position that a few friends of mine are in–everything they buy for the hobby (and I mean everything–glue, paint, putty, etc.) must be mail ordered. Of course, mail order these days is easy enough–a few clicks of the mouse, and *poof*, the order is on the way. But suppose you're trying to finish a project and run out of paint? Good luck finding FS35622 in the stocks at Office Depot. With gasoline creeping back up to around $3 a galon around these parts, that 80-mile drive migt not be on the slate this week…
I hope you enjoy my ramblings–thanks for taking the time to walk down memory lane with me. I'll have Part 3 ready in the near future.
When I was a kid, we went to the hobby shop exactly once a year. The purpose of the trip was to buy one of those paper mats with fake grass on them, so we could wrap a 4X8 sheet of plywood for the requisite electric train under the Christmas Tree. There was a shop about 30 minutes from the house–the now defunct Universal Hobbies on State Road 7 and Broward Boulevard–so we went there and spent maybe 10 minutes from the time we opened the door until the transaction was completed.
Fast forward to about 1981. I was in my full-on "serious" modeler mode, having recently discovered modeling magazines in whose articles the authors discussed such exotic materials such as putty, airbrushes, and decal solvents. Well, the K-Mart didn't have any of that stuff, so I'd beg a ride to the hobby shop. They had some of the stuff I was looking for, but none of the kits I wanted. My mother mentioned that she worked around the corner from another hobby shop, but it was further away from the house. I just got my ticket to drive, so I took a trip one summer day. It wasn't too much further from the house, and had lots of stuff packed into a little space. I had discovered Warrick Custom Hobbies in the Twin Oaks Center on Davie Boulevard, and it wasn't too long before I became a regular.
Remember the stash I wrote about a week ago? Well, the roots of that stash go back to 1982 and Warrick Custom Hobbies. Looking through the stacks in search of an Otaki 1/48 F4U Corsair kit–a kit that was, at the time, my Holy Grail–I noted another oddity. It was a Life-Like kit in my favored 1/48 scale of the Gloster Gladiator. Asking around, I discovered it was initially released by a company called Inpact some years before. It was fairly cheap (maybe $3 by the time the Governor got his cut), so I bought it. Once home, I quickly botched the build, so I went back and bought a second–the only one left on the shelf. That kit was stashed in my desk drawer, waiting for the time when my skills were such that I could do the kit justice. I still have the kit, and my skills are certainly developed enough to do a nice job–but in the meantime, another company has released a better, more modern kit of the same airplane. To be sure, I will keep the Life-Like kit, if for nothing more than nostalgia purposes. I may even build it–the fact that it was old enough to vote when I first bought it belies the fact that it exhibits a good amount of fidelity to the original, it just needs some of the now-expected fine details not present in kits from the day.
Oh, and that Corsair? I found one a few weeks later, built it, botched the paint job beyone salvage, and went to the shop and bought a second. That one got completed to my satisfaction and remained in my collection for a good many years, until it got broken during a move. Of course, since then we've seen much newer and much nicer kits arrive on the scene, much like the Gladiator kit.
Once I went to college, I couldn't frequent the shop as often as I did during that summer. I would, though, visit on those weekends when I travelled home, and I would usually find something to purchase. Some, I would build during that semester in school, others would join the Gladiator in the desk drawer. Being on the six-year plan (two studying Aero Engineering and four with Aero Studies with an Avionics concentration) meant that I may have visited the shop five or six times a year, maybe a few more if I had a summer break. That would change once I graduated and moved back to Ft. Lauderdale.
I'll tell you more of the story later. Until then, be good to one another. I bid you peace.
A few weeks ago, we had our HVAC system tested, and in order to do so, I had to move some boxes in our upstairs bonus room in order to get to the attic access door. While the boxes were displaced, I decided that I needed to do something that I hadn't done in at least 15 years–take an inventory of what I have in the "modeler's stash". While not true for all, some modelers are pack rats, and amass a collection of un-built kits that rival that of any well-stocked hobby shop–and I am no exception to that rule. As of this posting, I'm at 1,500 and counting–and that's more or less just kits, no aftermarket doo-dads or decal sheets included. If you think 1,500 is a lot, ponder this–a few years ago, there was an estate sale for a modeler who had died with some 10,000 un-built kits in his collection.
Why do we do this? We're supposedly sane people, right? None of us has ever appeared on Reality TV as some weird victim of our "habits", at least not that I know of. So why would otherwise upstanding people, viable contributors to society, gather such a large number of little plastic airplanes, ships, cars, tanks, or whatever? Why does anyone collect and/or hoard anything?
For some modelers, it has been the threat of "Limited Edition" kits. You know the drill–"Buy it now or pay through the nose later." Early on, I fell for it, but very rarely these days do I rush out to buy a mainstream kit because I don't think it'll be available in a week, month, or year. Mind you, there are some cottage industry kits that are limited to a certain number–and I will get those if the subject interests me, since a good many of those are truly "if you snooze, you lose", but for the most part I know that the kit will, more than likely, be available when I'm ready to purchase it.
Along the same lines, there is the "The molds were destroyed" story. Rumors abound on the interwebs about two or three kits that will never again be available since the company did away with the tooling. Airliner modelers chase their Holy Grail in the form of the Otaki 1/144 Lockheed L-1011 TriStar. Small-scale military modelers likewise snap up every one of the 1/144 Otaki/Entex/Nitto/Revell/Testors C-5A Galaxy kits they come across. Both kits, we're told, will never again be made, since Otaki is said to have dumped the molds in Tokyo Bay. The stories behind those actions are many and varied, but I don't know if anyone knows the real dope. Steel molds cost way too much for them to just be dumped.
Another angle: "Well, you know that the original mold of the Superfly was irreversibly altered in order to make the Super-Duperfly, right?" The only kit molds that I believe were "permanently altered" would have to be Revell's 1/115 scale Lockheed Electra airliner and their 1/48 H-34. The Electra story goes that the sales of the Electra kit had dropped off, and the U.S. Navy had just introduced the Electra-derived P-3A Orion to the fleet. Revell decided to capitalize by altering their Electra tool into an Orion, but in order to do so they could not go back. Whether true or not, we haven't seen Revell reissue an Electra kit, so I'd have to the story has merit. As for the H-34, it is said that Revell changed the molds to make a Queen's Flight Wessex, altering the molds in such a way that to mold an H-34 was now impossible. Nowadays, though, with slide mold technology and mold inserts, that is a thing of the past. I'm not falling for that line…
How about the collector? While there are kit collectors out there, I'm not one of them. True collectors want pristine examples of what they collect, whether that be coins, stamps, cars, dishes, or whatever. Nope, the boxes in the stash are dusty, some crumpled, some gone altogether. Nope, I'm no collector.
I'm a builder–a very slow builder, but I bought every kit I own with the intention of building it. The problem is time–it keeps moving. Will I ever get all of the kits in my stash built? The only way I can see that happening is if I were to crank out two or three a week until I leave this world for the next, without buying anything new. The way I build, that's not likely to happen. The alternative would be to do what I'm doing: Take stock, figure out what you really can live without, and sell the rest as SIDNA. SIDNA, by the way, politely stands for Stuff I Don't Need Anymore, and I've held a number of SIDNA sales over the past 15 years or so. Another one is looming…
Until next time, be good to one another. I bid you peace.